Ingredients Index: Collagen

Collagen. It’s one of the body’s main structural proteins and is found in the skin, bones, tendons, ligaments and connective tissue. Simply, it provides strength structure and support throughout the body.

We naturally produce collagen ourselves, but from our mid 20s onwards, production starts to slow down (how rude!). As a result, it’s becoming increasingly popular to incorporate collagen products in routines.

But what actually is collagen? What’s the difference between marine, bovine and vegan collagen? Do supplements really work? Let’s break it all down:

So… what does collagen do and why is it important?

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and helps give skin its firmness and elasticity. It also supports your joints and connective tissue. As collagen production naturally declines with age, skin can begin to appear thinner, drier and less firm over time.

“The cells responsible for producing collagen are known as fibroblasts. As we age, the activity of these cells gradually declines. In fact, collagen production begins decreasing in our mid-twenties and continues to reduce over time. External factors such as excessive sun exposure, pollution, smoking, poor nutrition, and chronic stress can accelerate this process. The result is a gradual loss of skin elasticity, fine lines, wrinkles, and reduced skin density,” explains Dr. Swetha P, Consultant Dermatologist and Cosmetologist.

Collagen is built from three key amino acids – glycine, proline and hydroxyproline and this gives collagen its signature triple helix structure. There are more than 28 different types of collagen, each of which serve a different role.

The most common types of collagen are:

• Type 1 collagen: the most common type and makes up around 90% of the collagen in the body, found in skin, bones, tendons and ligaments. Mostly associated with the skin firmness and structure.
• Type 2 collagen: found in the cartilage between your joints and eyes.
• Type 3 collagen: found in skin, blood vessels and the intestines, often working alongside type 1 collagen.

Less talked about, but still important

• Type 4 collagen: found in basement membranes in the skin, lungs, gastrointestinal tracts and kidneys.
• Type 5 collagen: found in bones, eyes and placenta tissue during pregnancy.

Signs collagen production might be slowing down

Natural collagen decline is a normal part of ageing, but here are some of the common signs:

• Skin starts to feel less firm or elastic
• Fine lines becoming more noticeable
• Thinner or dryer looking skin
• Joints becoming stiffer
• It takes longer to recover after exercise
• Changes in hair texture or brittle nails

Do collagen supplements become skin collagen?

Well… not exactly.

When you consume collagen in any form, your body breaks it down into amino acids and peptides (including glycine, proline and hydroxyproline). Your body then uses these building blocks wherever they’re most needed. This means they could support collagen product in the skin or joints, but equally these amino acids may be used for muscle repair, hormones, enzymes and other essential functions. Your body will prioritise whatever is needed most.

Yes, it’s true that collagen supplements provide the raw materials needed for collagen production, but there’s no guarantee they’ll go directly to the skin.

The different types of collagen supplements

• Marine collagen: derived from fish, rich in type 1 collagen for skin health and joint function.
• Bovine collagen: sourced from cows and primarily contains Types 1 and 3 collagen, making it popular for skin, connective tissue and overall structural support. Popular for skin and connective tissue support.
• Chicken collagen: rich in rich type 2 collagen. You’ll often find it called chicken sternum collagen. Commonly used in joint focused supplements.
• Vegan collagen: as collagen only comes from animal sources, no true vegan collagen supplement exists. Instead, vegan collagen supplements work to stimulate and support the body’s natural collagen production through things like vitamin c, amino acids and silica. “Collagen is an animal protein and therefore, there is no true vegan collagen. Vegan alternatives are generally made up of ingredients that aid the body’s natural collagen production (e.g., certain amino acids, vitamins and minerals) or using genetically engineered yeast and bacteria to create collagen-like peptides. They are promising, but researchers on their effectiveness versus animal collagen are still in the process,” explains Kristy Thomas, Registered Nutritionist, Prowise Healthcare.

What makes collagen supplements different?

Not all collagen supplements are created equal. Different manufacturing processes produce different types of collagen which each have their own structure and potential benefits.

Some of the most common forms are:

Hydrolysed collagen peptides

Also called collagen peptides. These have been broken down into smaller chains, making it easier for the body to digest and absorb.

Undenatured collagen

A less processed form. Remains in its original intact form, preserving its natural structure. Often found in joint support supplements.

What about collagen in skincare?

Collagen has become an increasingly popular skincare ingredient, found in everything from moisturisers to masks, designed to support mature or dehydrated skin. You’ll often see collagen discussed alongside ingredients like retinol, peptides and hyaluronic acid, all of which support the skin in different ways.

However, most collagen molecules are generally too large to penetrate deeply into the skin. it won’t simply replace the lost collagen, if that’s what you’re imagining. “From a dermatological perspective, the answer lies in the size of the collagen molecule. Native collagen molecules used in most skincare products are extremely large and cannot penetrate deeply through the skin’s protective barrier. As a result, topical collagen creams primarily act as moisturizers. They help improve hydration and temporarily smooth the skin’s surface but do not directly replace lost collagen in the deeper layers of the skin,” explains Dr. Swetha P, Consultant Dermatologist and Cosmetologist.

What collagen in skincare can do is help to hydrate the skin’s surface, which then improves the appearance of dryness and fine lines temporarily. So, while collagen skincare can absolutely have benefits, it’s not going to work exactly how you might be picturing it.

What you should be looking for is for skincare ingredients that stimulate collagen production in the skin like retinoids, peptides and vitamin c.

Can you get collagen through food?

Yes, there’s lots of foods that contain the amino acids that make collagen (glycine, proline, and hydroproline) but there’s a lack of research to show it can directly impact skin or joint health. When digested in the stomach, collagen from food is broken down into amino acids and they are distributed wherever the body needs protein.

Supplements usually contain ‘hydrolysed’ collagen or peptides, which are broken down and may support easier digestion and absorption– in the pure foods it requires a lot more digestive work to break down these collagen molecules.

How to choose the right collagen for you

When choosing a collagen supplement, there are many great options out there. You need to consider some things because it will all depend on what you’re looking for.

For skin support

Marine collagen is often a good bet as it’s rich in type 1 collagen.

For joints and connective tissue

Bovine or chicken collagen might be more suitable for you.

Consider allergies and sensitivities

If you have a fish or seafood allergy, avoid marine collagen products.

Focus on quality

Product quality and purity varies across brands, there’s different levels of quality so do your research. Look for third-party tested supplements.

How to boost your collagen naturally

• Maximize the benefits of a supplement with these easy tips to help boost your natural collagen too
• Stay hydrated – water keeps your skin plump and also helps transport the nutrients needed for collagen production.
• Up your protein: collagen is made from amino acids found in eggs, fish, chicken and beans so help the process along by getting in your protein
• Limit sugar and processed foods – these can promote inflammation, which damages collagen proteins
• Get in your minerals: zinc and copper activate the collagen-building enzymes, which you can find in nuts, seeds like pumpkin seeds, and legumes.
• Get good quality sleep: getting 7-9 hours of sleep a night allows your body to repair tissues
• Boost your vitamin c: “Vitamin C is needed for collagen formation; co-factor for enzymes that synthesize collagen. Some good sources are citrus fruits, berries, and leafy greens,” explains Kristy Thomas, Registered Nutritionist, Prowise Healthcare.
• UV exposure, smoking, stress and excess sugar intake can also accelerate collagen breakdown over time.

So… should you add collagen into your routine? Collagen supplements aren’t a miracle solution, but they may help to support overall skin, joint and connective tissue health along with your lifestyle choices… see it as a supportive aid, not a fix-all solution.